3rd Gear
85/20 1.84
83/17 1.80
83/25 1.85
80/30 1.79
80/32 1.80 -> But spike in 4th Gear
Monday, March 30, 2009
Blitz SBC-iD
Finally figured out why I could not hit 1.8 bar.. I had my boost controller limiter turned on :-(
Now that I can hit 1.8 bar, it's back to tuning boost. I found this reference useful for tuning boost using Blitz SBC-iD:
Setting the Blitz SBC-iD in manual mode
Setting
0. Put the controller into MANUAL mode. In manual mode you need to enter 2 numbers: SET and GAIN. SET determines a boost "ratio", and does not mean boost PSI.
1. Begin with SET=10 and GAIN=5.
2. In a higher gear (3rd or 4th), run the car to see what boost level the SET number corresponds to by watching what steady/stable boost level is reached. Increment the SET by 10 with each run till you reach the boost level you want. Write down your boost vs. SET for future reference, in case you want to change your boost in the future. If you overshoot the boost you want to reach, just back it down and fine tune as necessary. If you notice boost spikes, then you have set the GAIN too high, you do not want spikes at this point since that makes it more difficult to see the steady/stable boost level.
The reason why you should use the higher gears is because in the low gears, things can happen too fast to figure out what the steady/stable boost level is. Now that you have figured out the SET (boost ratio) that will give you the boost level you want, the next thing to do is to work out the gain:
3. Make runs in lower gear (1st or 2nd), increment GAIN by 5 with each run till you see boost spikes. Then fine tune it till there is little or no boost spike. This is your optimum gain setting for that boost level.
The reason why you should use the lower gear now is because boost builds much quicker in the lower gears, so there is a higher tendency to boost spike.
When setting your boost controller, always have a passenger set the controller and watch the boost gauge for you, the driver should keep his eyes on the road!
Common problem
Sometimes if the gain is set too high, it may appear to have the same effect as the duty cycle. If you notice (especially in the higher gears) that you initially hit the boost level you want, but then it starts tapering off, then you might have set the GAIN too high and SET too low.
Written by Aikmeng Kuah, SPL PARTS INC.
Jul 25 2003
Copyright SPL PARTS INC.
Now that I can hit 1.8 bar, it's back to tuning boost. I found this reference useful for tuning boost using Blitz SBC-iD:
Setting the Blitz SBC-iD in manual mode
Setting
0. Put the controller into MANUAL mode. In manual mode you need to enter 2 numbers: SET and GAIN. SET determines a boost "ratio", and does not mean boost PSI.
1. Begin with SET=10 and GAIN=5.
2. In a higher gear (3rd or 4th), run the car to see what boost level the SET number corresponds to by watching what steady/stable boost level is reached. Increment the SET by 10 with each run till you reach the boost level you want. Write down your boost vs. SET for future reference, in case you want to change your boost in the future. If you overshoot the boost you want to reach, just back it down and fine tune as necessary. If you notice boost spikes, then you have set the GAIN too high, you do not want spikes at this point since that makes it more difficult to see the steady/stable boost level.
The reason why you should use the higher gears is because in the low gears, things can happen too fast to figure out what the steady/stable boost level is. Now that you have figured out the SET (boost ratio) that will give you the boost level you want, the next thing to do is to work out the gain:
3. Make runs in lower gear (1st or 2nd), increment GAIN by 5 with each run till you see boost spikes. Then fine tune it till there is little or no boost spike. This is your optimum gain setting for that boost level.
The reason why you should use the lower gear now is because boost builds much quicker in the lower gears, so there is a higher tendency to boost spike.
When setting your boost controller, always have a passenger set the controller and watch the boost gauge for you, the driver should keep his eyes on the road!
Common problem
Sometimes if the gain is set too high, it may appear to have the same effect as the duty cycle. If you notice (especially in the higher gears) that you initially hit the boost level you want, but then it starts tapering off, then you might have set the GAIN too high and SET too low.
Written by Aikmeng Kuah, SPL PARTS INC.
Jul 25 2003
Copyright SPL PARTS INC.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Lean?
I did several 3rd gear pulls today and found out that I'm running pretty lean ~ 12.5 at WOT - strange! Why did overhauling my gearbox caused this to happen? I'll need to retune my open loop map now.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Got my car back!
My car is finally fixed. It took 3 days and 2 nights and cost me S$1.9K. Ah Boon changed my 4th and 5th gears and the sleeve and hub of my 3+4 and 5+6 gears. The car feels much smooth when changing gears and 5th gear slots in like a breeze. I have to run-in the gearbox for about 1 week. Till then no revving the car beyond 3000rpm :-)
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Gearbox repair
Just sent my car to Ah Boon to fix my gearbox. After stripping it apart, Ah Boon told me the 4th and 5th gears are in terrible shape. The hub and sleeve is gone and the gears are also damaged :-( It could cost up to 1.8K to fix. Sigh.. Wish I had more money to buy my R35 GTR - my dream car!
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Pop Sound
Sometimes when accelerating and letting go of the accelerator, I can hear a pop sound in my exhaust. I used to think that I was running rich and that was the sound of detonation but now I've realised it has to do with my open loop fueling map. If I set it such that the map is progressive and smooth, I do not have such problems.
Just a note :-)
Just a note :-)
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